After entering the Lao PDR (people’s democratic republic) in the northeast we were in the mountainous Phongsali province. According to books this is the poorest province inhabitated by different ethnic minorities.
As far as you can see there are rows of thick forested mountains. From our comfortable point on 1200m above sea level we first «flew» down into the green labyrinth. It was more quiet on the road as in Vietnam, hardly any horning, only few vehicles. Hotter it was too on this side of the border. The people seemed to be poorer but it looked tidier and cleaner. The Laotians seem to take good care of the little they have.
Obviously the are many projects in Laos. Every village has a sign describing the local project: «health project», «clean water scheme», «antiopium initiative»… There were also many new houses or new roofs. When we arrived at our first guesthouse the police was busy in the frontyard to immatriculate brand new motorbikes before they were handed over to young Laotians. The next morning a new load of motorbikes was standing in rows. More and more we also noticed white utes with UN or names of projects on the sides.
Life in the Laotian towns seemed to us more unhurried, peaceful. Nevertheless people are acitv, friendly and more heartly. It became easier to order meals as more people spoke little English. There was also less hassle about prices as the quoted price didn’t seem unrealistic in the first place. Short, we felt at ease with the surrounding those days cycling up and down to Muang Khoa and then along the river Nam Phak to Oudomxai.