Oudomxai, the first city we came to in Laos was a bit alienating with more traffic, dust, noise and strong Chinese influence. Nevertheless we enjoyed a great dinner in company of an interesting Malaysian couple. We listen with great interest, what traveling people from another Asian countries observe. The two were just as angry about the bordercrossing procedures from Vietnam to Lao, which they had experienced at the same checkpoint as we did. And they as Malay didn’t even need a visa!
The next morning we got up early, to make most of the cooler morning hours. We had not been sure about the condition of the next part of our travel. However we found that all the reports about the notorious road and its horrific condition are out of date. As we suspected from newer posts a new road – wide and smooth – is winding over the two passes (1’100 and 1’300m above sealevel) in a comfortable gradient. The road is very new, then the milestones are tough placed but not yet written on. A few kilometers before and after the highest point the surface was a little rougher, as the last layer of smooth tarmac is just being placed. Of course we were happy about an easy travel but it also made us think. This road is not made for cycle tourists! The days of contemplative biketraveling in Laos might soon be over. That again is the least concern for the population. The changes of the society coming along with more mobility will be much more incisive. And not to forget, that this road is a present of the Chinese. A present with a lot of self-interest. Already now trucks with Chinese numberplates roar over it from both sides. And trucks are not ment to mainly bring development. They take large loads of wood and other natural resources out of the country. It also helps to access the large Chinese hydropwer schemes.
On the road to Luang Prbang the former capital of the country everything became denser. Cars from Aid Organisations, Chinese activity, laotian cars, bigger houses, more noise and more hectic. Somehow inside a picture appeared, a picture of a country, into which everyone just came to act out one’s feelings on. With justification to do something to improve the standart of living of Lao’s people, what actually does seem to happen, everyone just enters the country. Some meaning searching Europeans for self-acutalisation and resources seaking Chinese for exploitation. Eventually they all are probably searching new markets !
The state of Laos seems somewhere away in the background.
