From Lijian to Yulong National Park (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain) there was a lot of traffic. On the carpark of this 5A tourist attraction accordingly we the discovered the largest get-together of coaches we have ever came across in our lives so far. People wearing red or yellow down coats, that could be purchased in several shops along the road were flooding the area of the visitor centre. Many were carrying a oxygen bottle for the expedition up the glacier world somewhere half way up the 5596m high snow mountain. In the middle of the base-park we were very surprised to find a model Matterhorn. There was a small fenced off area with three plastik cows. Above all that was a big sign – Switzerland. Probably this is financed by Switzerland Tourism. Maybe there will be some effect!? Anyway, we did as the Chinese did and took a picture.
The ticket allowing to use the road within the Park had cost a fortune. But luckily we didn’t listen to the lady at the gate, that wanted us to turn back to Lijiang as the onward road to Daju supposedly was blocked. From such a blockage we hadn’t heard before and with our mobile bicycles we were not going to let us being stopped by roadworks. We insisted on continuing. At the end of the touristy fancy park there really was a barrier where a policeman stopped all traffic except us. We alone were allowed on the already almost perfectly pressed new roadbed. What a treat to have the road through this wonderful scenery with views deep down into huge steep valleys all to ourselves. We crossed a pass on just above 3000m. On the summit a white stupa with the colourful prayerflags made clear that here the tibeten region started. A little further down, high above the furtil widened valley of the Yangtze at Daju we found a perfect campsite in warm sunshine. What a treat!
The next day we flew down the perfect road to Daju. There it took us a long time to find the ferry acorss the Yangtze despite signs, GPS, descriptions and help of locals. It is the old ferry! The new ferry, although mentioned many times and noted on maps is no more! Instead a bridge was planed to cross the river many years ago. We can see the beginning of a building site however presently there is no activity. The last 100m down to the old ferry degenerates to a hardly ridable track, which though can be easily walked with the bike. On the other side one has to push up the loaded bike for about 20min on a steep gravel road – hard work. Then from the main road it is only 8km to Walnut Garden, a small settlement between the lower and middle section oft he famous tiger leaping gorge. Through this narrow gorge the young Yangtze squeezes noisily. Again it cost an incredible fee to only use the road in the gorge. The money goes to the provincial bureau, without helping to finance any of the paths, platforms, hotels, restaurants maintained or lead by the locals. And not a penny goes towards environmental protection of this truly precious corner of nature! We shared our frustration with the owner of the guesthouse but didn’t let it stop nature to impress us deeply.
The following two days were characterised by winding roads across higher and higher reaching passes, dramatically steep deep valleys, friendly villages like Haba and Baishuitai. Flowers grew along the road and on the fields ; different sorts of pine-trees became common in the forests. Between them, above 3100m, rhododendron were flowering in a delicate white and bright pink. The scenery inspired us all the way even thoug it was a bit grey and moist. As well on the third day when we crossed the so far highest pass with a bit more than 3700m. Here we had reached the edge of the tibeten plateau and the following valleys were wider with grasslands and soft forest covered mountains around. The big almost massive tibeten stile houses were standing in groups on the grasslands. The whole image made us feel as if we would be cycling through the Engadin in Switzerland. Sunshine and rain took turns every 15min until we reached Shangri-La – a worthy place for a break.
