We found Northern Vietnam suitable for cycletouring. There are many good roads and outside the cities traffic is no problem. The topography is challenging especially together with the hot humidity. We were able to enjoy the beautiful landscape mostly the last few days as the the mist lifted. Probably it would have been better to arrive in March, one month earlier. When the humid cold is passed but before the humid heat with the fog.
How food has been a bit of a challenge we have already mentioned. It started with breakfast, if for once it shouldn’t be Pho – noodle soup with meat. But also getting snacks and dinner always ment to look for a place, discuss, translate… and sometimes we still ended up with a surprise. Of course this would be very different, if one would speak Vietnamese, and at the same time you would learn a lot more about the country from the people.
We always found accommodation with a clean bed as well as tea pot and cups. Some rooms were marked by the humidity and there was always an improvised pluming system. The bathrooms never got dry, as the water slowly found its way across the floor to the drain somewhere in a corner of the other side. But then, even basic guesthouses provide bathroom-sandels. Our sleep unfortunately was often interrupted. The room always were open somewhere to let in light and noises. And outside there was constantly either traffic or roosters and dogs compedeting. Else the neighbour surely took the quiet minute to use the bathroom…
Generally we think, that Northern Vietnam is not yet suitable for more demanding tourists.
Besides the pictures we could fix in fotographs we were filled with many other impressions we could not hold on to. Smells and noises and moments unsuitable to take out the camera like the scenes along the roadside. Others just pass to quickly. Unfortunately we could hardly get pictures of all the motorbikes transporting the most incredible loads. You would marvel what can be transported on a single motorbike. Naturally it can seat 1-5 people. But we saw huge pigs dead or alive, cages with about 20 piglets, baskets with chooks, several boxes, 6-8 banana fruitstems, many 10 liter watercontainers, over 5m long steel poles, another motorbike… Besides that we felt very unspectacular with our few panniers.
So far we haven’t mentioned the other cycletourist we have met, all of which came the opposite direction: Andrez from Equador who cycles southeast Asia for 7 month and 2 dutch women on their way from Kunming to Hanoi. In the mountains up north we also met a great french family, mum, dad and two primary school girls. They have taken a years time to cycle together. In August 2015 they have started in northern Australia and since are on their way through all Southeast Asia from Indonesia until Sichuan in China. We are happy that our ways have crossed. Was great meeting you!
As a summery for Vietnam : interesting, challenging and many impressions. And we will keep the many smiling faces in good memory.
Tạm biệt và chúc may mắn Viet nam – Goodbye and good luck Vietnam!